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  • "We Are Our Mountains" Monument in Stepanakert

    This article discusses the "We Are Our Mountains" monument, the most iconic landmark of Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh), currently under Azerbaijani occupation. For decades, this monument symbolized the Armenian heritage of Artsakh and was a beloved tourist destination. < Back "We Are Our Mountains" Monument in Stepanakert This article discusses the "We Are Our Mountains" monument, the most iconic landmark of Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh), currently under Azerbaijani occupation. For decades, this monument symbolized the Armenian heritage of Artsakh and was a beloved tourist destination. Over 40 years ago, an international exhibition was held in Carrara, Italy, featuring masterpieces by renowned artists from around the world. Among them were works by the esteemed sculptor Professor Sargis Baghdasaryan, a People's Artist of Armenia and state award laureate. One of his exhibited pieces would later gain worldwide fame: the iconic sculpture, We Are Our Mountains . After the Carrara exhibition, Baghdasaryan decides to look for a place in Artsakh to erect a large version of the statue. And his choice stops on one of the hills at the entrance to Stepanakert. "We Are Our Mountains" monument About the Monument The "We Are Our Mountains" monument (Armenian: Մենք ենք մեր լեռները) is located just north of Stepanakert in Nagorno-Karabakh. Construction took two years and was completed in 1967. Designed by sculptor Sargis Baghdasaryan and architect Yuri Akopian, the monument is considered a strong symbol of Armenian identity and heritage. Carved from volcanic tuff from Hoktemberyan, the nine-meter-high sculpture depicts an elderly man and woman, symbolizing the mountain people of Karabakh. Locally, it is known as "Tatik-Papik" (Grandmother and Grandfather) in Armenian and "Dedo-Babo" in the Karabakh dialect. It also appears on the official coat of arms of Artsakh. Notably, the monument was designed without a pedestal to appear as though the figures emerge directly from the mountains—a choice reflecting their deep connection to the land. During its unveiling on November 1, 1967, Soviet officials from Baku questioned why the figures lacked visible legs. Baghdasaryan responded, "They are there, deeply rooted in their land." "We Are Our Mountains" monument under construction in 1967 Following Azerbaijan's Occupation of Artsakh On September 29, 2023, Azerbaijani officials raised the Azerbaijani flag on the monument following the capture of Stepanakert after a military offensive and the forced exodus of the Armenian population. Amid fears of possible demolition, the Azerbaijani government instead appropriated the monument, asserting it as part of Azerbaijan’s heritage, stating it was built in "Khankendi" and reflects Azerbaijan’s "tolerance of multicultural and religious monuments." Azerbaijani authorities also alleged the monument had been "Armenianized" and was originally an Azeri symbol. This claim aligns with ongoing Azerbaijani efforts to appropriate Armenian cultural heritage, a pattern that has raised international concerns about the preservation of Artsakh’s historic identity. Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

  • Adventure Tours in Armenia: From Mountain Climbs to Urbex Explorations

    From the towering peaks of ancient volcanoes to the forgotten relics of its Soviet past, Armenia is a paradise for adventurers who seek both natural beauty and the thrill of discovery. This article will guide you through some of the most exciting adventure tours in Armenia, including mountain climbs and urban exploration, also known as urbex. < Back Adventure Tours in Armenia: From Mountain Climbs to Urbex Explorations From the towering peaks of ancient volcanoes to the forgotten relics of its Soviet past, Armenia is a paradise for adventurers who seek both natural beauty and the thrill of discovery. This article will guide you through some of the most exciting adventure tours in Armenia, including mountain climbs and urban exploration, also known as urbex. 1. Mountain Climbing in Armenia Mount Aragats: The highest mountain in Armenia Mount Aragats is Armenia's highest peak and a dream destination for mountaineers. This dormant stratovolcano has four summits, with the Northern summit being the highest at 4,090 meters (13,419 feet). The Southern summit, at 3,888 meters (12,756 feet), is the most accessible and popular among hikers and climbers. At the top of Mount Aragats (Southern Summit) Climbing Aragats offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes, including a view of biblical Mount Ararat. The climb to the Southern summit is manageable for most hikers, especially during the summer months. The route begins at Lake Kari, a picturesque alpine lake at 3,200 meters (10,500 feet) above sea level, and takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to reach the top. For those seeking a more formidable challenge, the Northern summit presents a rigorous climb that requires experience and better physical fitness. The reward, however, is an unparalleled view from Armenia's highest point. Mount Azhdahak: A Hiker's Delight Another popular destination for climbers is Mount Azhdahak, a dormant volcano in the Geghama Mountains. Standing at 3,597 meters (11,801 feet), Azhdahak is known for its stunning crater lake, which forms from melting snow in the summer months. The trek to Azhdahak is a journey through volcanic landscapes, dotted with ancient petroglyphs that tell the story of Armenia’s distant past. At the top of Mount Azhdahak The hike to the summit is relatively moderate, making it accessible to most hikers with a decent level of fitness. The trail offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, Lake Akna, Lake Sevan, and the distant Aragats massif. Azhdahak is also a place of cultural significance, as it is linked to Armenian mythology and ancient traditions. 2. Hiking and Trekking Adventures Dilijan National Park: Armenia’s Little Switzerland Dilijan National Park, often referred to as Armenia’s “Little Switzerland,” is a must-visit for hikers and nature lovers. The park is known for its lush forests, tranquil lakes, and ancient monasteries. The Transcaucasian Trail, which passes through Dilijan, offers some of the best hiking in Armenia, with well-marked trails that cater to all levels of experience. Lake Parz Popular hikes include the trail to Lake Parz – Gosh village or Lake Gosh, a serene spot for a picnic or a paddle in a rowboat, and the trek to the Dimats mountains, which has become a very popular destination in recent years. The park’s diverse flora and fauna, combined with its cultural heritage sites, make it a rewarding destination for those who love both nature and history. Tatev Monastery, Old Khot Village, and the Tatev Desert The hike to the Tatev Desert from Tatev Monastery or Satan’s Bridge offers a thrilling adventure through rugged terrain, providing breathtaking views of the canyon and surrounding mountains. Nestled deep within a gorge and shrouded by dense forest, the Tatev Desert offers an unparalleled opportunity to connect with nature and experience the profound tranquility of this remote location. Tatev Desert A highlight of this area is the Wings of Tatev, the world’s longest reversible aerial tramway, which stretches 5.7 kilometers (3.5 miles) across the canyon. This cable car ride provides not only stunning panoramic views but also a unique perspective of the landscape, making it an unforgettable part of any visit to Tatev. Exploring Old Khot village Another captivating destination is the Old Khot Village, often referred to as the "Armenian Machu Picchu." Perched on the slope of a gorge, this abandoned village offers a hauntingly beautiful glimpse into the past. Discovering this remote site, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, evokes the feeling of stepping into a cinematic experience—where history, mystery, and nature converge in a setting that feels almost surreal. 3. Urban Exploration (Urbex) in Armenia Soviet Relics: Discovering Armenia’s Abandoned Places For those interested in urban exploration, Armenia’s Soviet-era relics offer a fascinating glimpse into the country’s recent past. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, many industrial plants, hotels, pioneer camps, and cultural houses were abandoned, left to decay and be reclaimed by nature. These sites have since become popular destinations for urbex enthusiasts who are drawn to their eerie beauty and historical significance. Abandoned Cable Car Station Exploring Abandoned Factories and Mines One of the most intriguing urbex destinations in Armenia is Orgov village, where the ROT54 telescope is located. Once a scientific center, today it lies in ruins in a preserved state but still attracts thousands of tourists from around the world. The view from there, the size of the telescope, and the control room are things that everyone loves. Inside an abandoned copper tunnel North of Armenia is a Haven for Urbexers Once thriving industrial hubs, the northern cities of Armenia now stand as poignant reminders of their former glory. For urban exploration enthusiasts, these cities are a treasure trove of discovery. Abandoned cable car stations, pioneer camps, deserted factories, and copper mines offer countless opportunities to delve into the past. Additionally, nearby hiking trails, such as those leading to Kayan Fortress or the Horomayr Monastic Complex, provide stunning panoramic views of the majestic Lori Gorge. 4. Combining Adventure and Culture One of the unique aspects of adventure tours in Armenia is the opportunity to combine outdoor activities with cultural experiences. Many of Armenia’s hiking trails and urbex sites are located near historical landmarks, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the country’s rich heritage while satisfying their thirst for adventure. Me on the shore of lake Nazeli, Geghama mountains For example, a hike in the Geghama Mountains can easily be combined with a visit to the ancient Geghard Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site carved into the mountainside, or a visit to pagan Garni Temple. Similarly, a tour of Armenia’s abandoned Soviet-era sites can include visits to nearby cultural attractions, such as the Mikoyan Brothers’ Museum in Sanahin or the medieval Akhtala Monastery. 5. Practical Tips for Adventure Travelers in Armenia Best Time to Visit: The best time for adventure tours in Armenia is from late spring to early autumn when the weather is mild and the trails are accessible. Guided Tours: Hiring a local guide is highly recommended, especially for challenging hikes and urbex explorations. Guides can provide valuable insights into the history and significance of the sites, as well as ensure your safety. What to Pack: For hiking and climbing, be sure to pack sturdy footwear, layers for changing weather conditions, and plenty of water. For urbex tours, bring a flashlight, gloves, and a camera to capture the unique atmosphere of the abandoned sites. Conclusion Armenia’s diverse landscapes and rich history make it an ideal destination for adventure travelers. Whether you’re climbing the towering peaks of Mount Aragats, trekking through the lush forests of Dilijan, or exploring the eerie remains of the Soviet era, Armenia offers a wealth of experiences that are sure to satisfy your sense of adventure. So pack your bags, lace up your hiking boots, and get ready to discover the hidden gems of this fascinating country. Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

  • Hiking tour to mount Yeranos | Armenian Explorer

    < Back Hiking tour to mount Yeranos If you are looking for a hike in Armenia with a breathtaking view towards mount Ararat or Azat reservoir then mount Yeranos trail is for you! Get your guide and travel to one of the most wanted destinations in Armenia! Mount Yeranos (1823m) is a peak near the northern edge of Ararat Region, Armenia, in the western half of the Yeranos mountain range, 8 km northeast of Lanjazat village. Beyond its natural allure, Mount Yeranos also plays a crucial role in the region's ecological balance. Its slopes serve as a habitat for various plants and animal species, like Bezoar ibex, some of which are not only endemic to Armenia but are also endangered and are treasured in the Red Book! Mount Yeranos as seen by me from Azat reservoir Tour Details: Start: 7:30-8.00 AM from Yerevan Finish: Around 5 PM in Yerevan Hiking Distance: 9 km (One way) Duration: Around 4 hours (Ascent)! Altitude Gain: 756 meters Start point: Foot of mount Yeranos (from the Norashen village side) End point: Foot of mount Yeranos Difficulty: Difficult Trail Type: Out-and-Back Transportation: Sedan --------------- Tour Price to the Summit of Mount Yeranos 1-4 Participants: 90.000 AMD For larger groups, please consider contacting for more details! ----------------- The Price Includes: Transportation (Pick Up & Drop-off) Service of a guide. -------------- The Price Does Not Include: Airport transfers Insurance Lunch (Lunchboxes can be added in case of an extra payment) ---------- List of things you should consider taking: 1. Backpack: A sturdy backpack to carry all your essentials. 2. Water: Sufficient water to stay hydrated throughout the hike. At least 1.5 liters… 3. Food: Pack lightweight, high-energy snacks or meals to keep your energy levels up. 4. Clothing: Dress in layers, including a waterproof/windproof outer layer, and choose moisture-wicking materials. Having extra socks and boots always welcomed… 5. Hiking Shoes/Boots: Wear comfortable and supportive footwear suitable for the terrain. 6. First Aid Kit: I have mine but in case you are using specific medicaments take with you! 7. Sun Protection: Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat to protect yourself from harmful UV rays. 9. Headlamp/Flashlight: Essential for hiking in low light conditions or during overnight trips. 10. Whistle: A loud whistle for attracting attention in case of emergencies. 11. Trekking Poles: Optional but helpful for stability, especially on challenging terrains. 12. Rain Gear: A lightweight, waterproof jacket or poncho to stay dry during rain showers. 13. Trash Bag: Carry a small bag to pack out your trash and keep the trail clean. Remember, this list may vary depending on the length and difficulty of the hike, weather conditions, and personal needs. But this were the basic things I decided to emphasize! Project Gallery You May Also Like 2-Day Hiking and Sightseeing Tour in Armenia's Lori Region Aparan Reservoir Loop Trail 1-Day Hike to Mount Ara Hiking tour to mount Yeranos 1-Day Hiking Tour to Lastiver from Yerevan Hiking tour to Smbataberd Fortress A Hiking Adventure to Mount Tesilk and its Mysterious Cave Hiking tour to Tghit cyclopean fortress

  • A Visit to the Tumanyan Matchbox Label Museum

    If you are traveling across the Lori region and looking for something special, something different, then this museum in Tumanyan town is for you. Here, you can find a cozy museum of matchbox labels and a unique café named Flying Samovar. < Back A Visit to the Tumanyan Matchbox Label Museum If you are traveling across the Lori region and looking for something special, something different, then this museum in Tumanyan town is for you. Here, you can find a cozy museum of matchbox labels and a unique café named Flying Samovar. Nestled amidst the lush landscapes of Armenia's Lori Province lies the tiny town of Tumanyan. While seemingly unassuming at first glance, Tumanyan boasts unique architecture and a museum that sparks the imagination and ignites a sense of nostalgia: the Tumanyan Matchbox Label Museum. Raffi, the founder of the museum, says that when he first came to Tumanyan, he was impressed by the combination of architecture and nature. This one-of-a-kind museum, established in 2021, proudly displays a collection exceeding 10,000 matchbox labels, each a miniature window into a bygone era. The trees conceal one of the most amazing museums of its kind The "Development of Innovative Tourism and Technologies for Armenia" program of the EU4Business initiative supported the establishment of the museum. While there are many Soviet labels, the museum includes labels from around the world, from Europe to India, as well as Japan and Australia. Countless themes are covered throughout the museum, although the collection seems to highlight labels related to public education campaigns, crafts, flags and coats of arms, space, humor, puzzles, and match-themed labels. For collectors, the museum provides a treasure trove. The oldest label proudly displayed dates back to 1920, a testament to the long and fascinating history of matchbox label design. Exploring Tumanyan Matchbox Label Museum The museum boasts an extensive collection of matchbox labels featuring famous individuals, including a unique series with drawings by Alexander Pushkin. Additionally, there are labels depicting the various nations of the USSR, as well as numerous labels themed around cosmonautics. This charming museum houses thousands of matchbox labels, showcasing a diverse array of national costumes and seals, educational themes, space imagery, and various symbolic motifs. It offers a unique and enriching experience for visitors. Matchboxes were truly a reflection of a given country and period. So, if you are familiar with the culture, history, public manners, and customs of a particular country, you will immediately distinguish which country the matchbox is from. Coffee break at "Flying Samovar Café," located just across from the museum Countries presented their sporting achievements, culture, customs, cities, and animal and plant diversity through matchbox labels. There is a very unique series that represents the history of aeromodelling, from the simplest helicopter to the modern airplane. After your tour, I also suggest you visit the “Flying Samovar Café” on the opposite side of the museum, where you can enjoy a cup of coffee with nice arched windows creating a panoramic view. You can also see rare posters and a small collection of clocks and typewriters. Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

  • Armenian Alphabet Alley

    Nestled on the eastern slopes of majestic Mount Aragats, Armenian Alphabet Alley offers a unique journey through the heart of Armenian language and culture. More than just a tourist destination, it's a monument to the enduring spirit of a people and their devotion to their written word. < Back Armenian Alphabet Alley Nestled on the eastern slopes of majestic Mount Aragats, Armenian Alphabet Alley offers a unique journey through the heart of Armenian language and culture. More than just a tourist destination, it's a monument to the enduring spirit of a people and their devotion to their written word. Armenian Alphabet Monument, often referred to as Armenian Alphabet Alley, is located in the Artashavan village of the Aragatsotn region, on the eastern slope of Mount Aragats (approximately 35 km away from Yerevan). The monument was built in 2005 to commemorate the 1600th anniversary of the creation of Armenian writing. The monument includes sculptures of the 39 letters of the Armenian alphabet and monuments of Armenian greats. Armenian Alphabet Alley in winter Armenian alphabet was created in 405-406 and is still in use. Developed by Mesrop Mashtots, the Mashtotsian alphabet originally consisted of 36 letters, 3 more letters were added in the Middle Ages. Sculptures: "Gregory the Illuminator" "The Creation of Alphabet, 405" "Movses Khorenatsi" "Mkhitar Gosh, Judgment book" (sculptor: Samvel Hakobyan) "Anania Shirakatsi" (sculptor: Artush Papoyan, 4 m, tuff), with Shirakatsi's raised left hand holding the symbol of the earth and the universe, while his right hand points down. According to the sculptor, the hands stretched up and down are an eloquent testimony to the connection with heaven and earth. "Khachatur Abovyan," with Abovyan's words carved at the bottom of the statue: "Give your breath, your soul, but don't give your homeland to the enemy." "Tumanyan and Gikor" (sculptor: Sevo, Sargis Gharibyan) Authors: Author of the idea: Aghvan Hovsepyan Architect: Fred Africyan The Armenian Alphabet Alley stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of the Armenian language and the rich cultural heritage of Armenia. It is a must-visit for anyone interested in language, history, and culture. The monument, set against the backdrop of Armenia’s Mount Aragats, offers a unique and enriching experience for visitors. Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

  • Marco Polo about Armenia

    This brief article is an excerpt from Thomas Wright's book, "The Travels of Marco Polo The Venetian." In the chapters presented below, Marco Polo shares insights about Armenia. The author includes useful footnotes that clarify many archaic names of Armenian locations. < Back Marco Polo about Armenia This brief article is an excerpt from Thomas Wright's book, "The Travels of Marco Polo The Venetian." In the chapters presented below, Marco Polo shares insights about Armenia. The author includes useful footnotes that clarify many archaic names of Armenian locations. Marco Polo, a renowned Venetian merchant and explorer of the 13th century, embarked on a journey from Europe to Asia. Spending 17 years in China, he served as an envoy and diplomat for Kublai Khan, the Mongol emperor. Polo documented his extensive travels in a book titled "The Travels of Marco Polo," offering detailed accounts of his experiences, observations, and insights into the culture, geography, politics, and economy of China and other lands. His influential work inspired subsequent travelers and explorers, including Christopher Columbus. Intrigued by Polo's perspective on Armenia, this blog post features an extract from his book (The Travels Of Marco Polo The Venetian by Thomas Wright). Mosaic of Marco Polo displayed in the Palazzo Doria-Tursi, Genoa, Italy Chapter II. Of Armenia Minor—Of the Port of Laiassus—And of the Boundaries of the Province. IN commencing the description of the countries which Marco Polo visited in Asia, and of things worthy of notice which he observed therein, it is proper to mention that we are to distinguish two Armenias, the Lesser and the Greater. 1 The king of the Lesser Armenia dwells in a city called Sebastoz, 2 and rules his dominions with strict regard to justice. The towns, fortified places, and castles are numerous. There is abundance of all necessaries of life, as well as of those things which contribute to its comfort. Game, both of beasts and birds, is in plenty. It must be said, however, that the air of the country is not remarkably healthy. In former times its gentry were esteemed expert and brave soldiers; but at the present day they are great drinkers, pusillanimous, and worthless. On the sea−coast there is a city named Laiassus, 3 a place of considerable traffic. Its port is frequented by merchants from Venice, Genoa, and many other places, who trade in spiceries and drugs of different sorts, manufactures of silk and of wool, and other rich commodities. Those persons who design to travel into the interior of the Levant, 4 usually proceed in the first instance to this port of Laiassus. The boundaries of the Lesser Armenia are, on the south, the Land of Promise, now occupied by the Saracens; 5 on the north, Karamania, inhabited by Turkomans; towards the north−east lie the cities of Kaisariah, Sevasta, 6 and many others subject to the Tartars; and on the western side it is bounded by the sea, which extends to the shores of Christendom. 1 This distinction of the Armenias into the Greater and the Lesser, is conformable to what we find in Ptolemy and the geographers of the middle ages; although other divisions have taken place since that part of Asia has been subject to the Ottoman empire. The Les en Armenia is defined by Büsching as comprehending that part of Cappadocia and Cilicia which lies along the western side of the Greater Armenia, and also on the western side of the Euphrates. That in the days of Haiton it extended south of Taurus, and included Cilicia (campestris), which was not the case in more ancient times, we have the unexceptionable authority of that historian. 2 As it appears from the passage quoted in the preceding note, as well as from other authorities, that Sîs was the capital of the Lesser Armenia during the reigns of the Leons and Haitons, we are led to suppose the Sebastoz here mentioned to have been the ancient name of that city, or of one that stood on the same site. It is obvious, indeed, from the geography of Ptolemy, that there were many places in Asia Minor that bore the names of Sebastia, Sebaste, and Sebastopolis (besides one in Syria), and in his enumeration of the towns of Cilicia, we find a Sebaste, to which, in the Latin translation, published at Venice in 1562, the epithet of “augusta” is annexed. Upon the foundations of this, Leon I. (from whom the country is called by the Arabians, Belad Leon, as well as Belad Sîs), may have built the modern city, and the Greek name may have been still prevalent. We are told, however, that the city which preceded Sis, as the capital of Armenia Minor, was named Messis, Massis, or Massissa, the ancient Mopsuestia, and it must be confessed that if authority was not in opposition to conjecture, the sound of these names might lead us to suppose that the modern name was only an abbreviation of Mes−sis, and Sebastoz a substitution for Mopsueste. In a subsequent part of the chapter the city of Sevasta or Sevaste, the modern Siwas or Sivas, is spoken of under circumstances that appear to distinguish it entirely from the Armenian capital; having been recently conquered by the Moghuls from the Seljuk princes. 3 Lajazzo, or Aïas, is situated in a low, morassy country, formed by the alluvion of the two rivers Sihon and Jihon (of Cilicia), and (as observed to me by Major Rennell) at the present mouth of the latter. Its trade has been transferred to Alexandretta or Scanderoon, on the opposite or Syrian side of the gulf. 4 Levant is a translation of the word Anatolia or Anadoli, from the Greek “ortus, oriens,” signifying the country that lies eastward from Greece. As the name of a region therefore it should be equivalent to Natolia, in its more extensive acceptation; and it is evident that our author employs it to denote Asia Minor. Smyrna is at present esteemed the principal port in the Levant, and the term seems to be now confined to the sea−coast and to mercantile usage. 5 For the Land of Promise, or Palestine, which extends no further to the north than Tyre, is here to be understood Syria, or that part of it called Cælo−Syria, which borders on Cilicia or the southern part of Armenia Minor. As the more general denomination of Syria includes Palestine, and the latter name was, in the time of the Crusades, more familiar to Europeans than the former, it is not surprising that they should sometimes be confounded. The Saracens here spoken of were the subjects of the Mameluk sultans or soldans of Egypt, who recovered from the Christian powers in Syria, what the princes of the family of Saladin, or of the Ayubite dynasty, had lost. In other parts of the work the term is employed indiscriminately with that of Mahometan. 6 The Turkomans of Karamania were a race of Tartars settled in Asia Minor, under the government of the Seljuk princes, of whom an account will be found in the following note. Kaisariah or Cæsarea, and Sevasta or Sebaste, the Sebastopolis Cappadociæ of Ptolemy and Siwas or Sivas of the present day, were cities belonging to the same dynasty, that had been conquered by the Moghuls in the year 1242. Chapter III. Of the Province called Turkomania, where are the Cities of Kogni, Kaisariah, and Sevasta, and of its Commerce. THE inhabitants of Turkomania 1 may be distinguished into three classes. The Turkomans, who reverence Mahomet and follow his law, are a rude people, and dull of intellect. They dwell amongst the mountains and in places difficult of access, where their object is to find good pasture for their cattle, as they live entirely upon animal food. There is here an excellent breed of horses which has the appellation of Turki, and fine mules which are sold at high prices. 2 The other classes are Greeks and Armenians, who reside in the cities and fortified places, and gain their living by commerce and manufacture. The best and handsomest carpets in the world are wrought here, and also silks of crimson and other rich colours. 3 Amongst its cities are those of Kogni, Kaisariah, and Sevasta, in which last Saint Blaise obtained the glorious crown of martyrdom. 4 They are all subject to the great khan, emperor of the Oriental Tartars, who appoints governors to them. 5 We shall now speak of the Greater Armenia. 1 By Turkomania we are to understand, generally, the possessions of the great Seljuk dynasty in Asia Minor, extending from Cilicia and Pamphylia, in the south, to the shores of the Euxine sea, and from Pisidia and Mysia, in the west, to the borders of Armenia Minor; including the greater part of Phrygia and Cappadocia, together with Pontus, and particularly the modern provinces of Karamania and Rumiyah, or the country of Rûm. Of the former of these, the capital. was Iconium, corrupted by the oriental writers to Kuniyah, and by those of the Crusades to Kogni; of the latter, Sebaste or Sebastopolis, corrupted to Siwas or Sivas. The chief from whom the dynasty of Seljuks derived its appellation, was by birth a Turkoman, of Turkistan, on the north−eastern side of the river Sihon or Jaxartes, but in the service of a prince of Khozar, on the Wolga, from which he fled and pursued his fortune in Transoxiana; as did some of his family in Khorasan. Having acquired great celebrity, they were at length enabled, by the means of numerous tribes of Turkomans who joined their standard, to establish a sovereignty, or, in point of extent, an empire, the principal seat of which was in Persia. Another branch, about the year 1080, wrested the fine provinces of Asia Minor from the Greek emperors, and formed the kingdom of which we are now speaking. Through its territory the Christian princes repeatedly forced their way in their progress to the Holy Land, and it is computed by historians that not fewer than six hundred thousand men perished in this preliminary warfare. At length the power of the Seljuks yielded to the overwhelming influence of the house of Jengiz−khan, and in our author's time they were reduced to insignificance; but from their ruins sprang the empire of the Ottomans, the founder of which had been in the service of one of the last sultans of Iconium. 2 The pastoral habits of the Turkoman Tartars are preserved to this day, even in Asia Minor, and the distinction of their tribes subsists also. The Turki breed of horses is esteemed throughout the East, for spirit and hardiness. 3 “Et ibi fiunt soriani et tapeti pulchriores de mundo et pulchrioris coloris" are the words of the Latin text. 4 “Blaise, bishop of Sebasta, in Cappadocia, in the second and third centuries,” says the Biographical Dictionary, “suffered death under Diocletian, by decapitation, after being whipped and having his flesh torn with iron combsIt is difficult to say how the invention (of wool combing) came to be attributed to him; but it had probably no better origin than the circumstance of his being tortured with the instruments used in the combing of wool.” 5 It is the family of Hulagu, and the tribes who followed his standard from the north, whom our author always designates by the name of Oriental Tartars, to distinguish them from the descendants of Batu, who settled near the Wolga, on the north−western side of the Caspian, and extended their conquests towards Europe; whilst the former entered Persia from the Eastern quarter, by the way of Transexiana and Khorasan. Chapter IV. Of Armenia Major, in which are the Cities of Arzingan, Argiron, and Darziz—Of the Castle of Paipurth—Of the Mountain where the Ark of Noah rested—Of the Boundaries of the Province—And of a remarkable Fountain of Oil. ARMENIA Major is an extensive province, at the entrance of which is a city named Arzingan, 1 where there is a manufacture of very fine cotton cloth called bombazines, 2 as well as of many other curious fabrics, which it would be tedious to enumerate. It possesses the handsomest and most excellent baths of warm water, issuing from the earth, that are anywhere to be found. 3 Its inhabitants are for the most part native Armenians, but under the dominion of the Tartars. In this province there are many cities, but Arzingan is the principal, and the seat of an archbishop; and the next in consequence are Argiron 4 and Darziz. 5 It is very extensive, and, in the summer season, the station of a part of the army of the Eastern Tartars, on account of the good pasture it affords for their cattle; but on the approach of winter they are obliged to change their quarters, the fall of snow being so very deep that the horses could not find subsistence, and for the sake of warmth and fodder they proceed to the southward. Within a castle named Paipurth, 6 which you meet with in going from Trebisond to Tauris, there is a rich mine of silver. 7 In the central part of Armenia stands an exceedingly large and high mountain, upon which, it is said, the ark of Noah rested, and for this reason it is termed the mountain of the ark. 8 The circuit of its base cannot be compassed in less than two days. The ascent is impracticable on account of the snow towards the summit, which never melts, but goes on increasing by each successive fall. In the lower region, however, near the plain, the melting of the snow fertilizes the ground, and occasions such an abundant vegetation, that all the cattle which collect there in summer from the neighbouring country, meet with a never−failing supply. 9 Bordering upon Armenia, to the south−west, are the districts of Mosul and Maredin, which shall be described hereafter, and many others too numerous to particularize. To the north lies Zorzania, near the confines of which there is a fountain of oil which discharges so great a quantity as to furnish loading for many camels. 10 The use made of it is not for the purpose of food, but as an unguent for the cure of cutaneous distempers in men and cattle, as well as other complaints; and it is also good for burning. In the neighbouring country no other is used in their lamps, and people come from distant parts to procure it. 1 Arzengân, or, as written by the Arabians, who have not the Persian g, Arzenjân, is a city near the frontier of Rumiyah, but just within the limits of Armenia Major. “Cette ville,” says D'Herbelot, “appartient plutôt à l'Arménie, et fut prise par les Mogols ou Tartares l an 640 de l'Hégire, de J. C. 1242, après la défaite de Kaikhosrou, fils d'Aladin le Selgiucide, aussi bien que les villes de Sébaste et de Césarée.” By an oriental geographer it is said to be, “Oppidum celeberrimum, elegans, amænum, copiosum bonis rebus, incolisque: pertinens ad Armeniam: inter Rumæas provincias et Chalatam situm, haud procul Arzerroumo: esseque incolas ejus maixmam partem Armenios” Alberti Schultens Index Geographicus in Vitam Saladini. Josaphat Barbaro, a Venetian, who travelled into Persia, in the fifteenth century, speaks of Arsengan as a place that had formerly been of consequence, but was then mostly in ruins. 2 The name of a species of cloth which I have here translated “bombazine,” is in the Italian of Ramusio, “bochassini di bambagio,” and in the Latin versions “buchiranus, buchyramis, and bucaramus.” Its substance or texture is not clearly explained in our dictionaries. That of Cotgrave, printed in 1611, defines “boccasin,” to be “a kind of fine buckeram, that hath a resemblance of taffata, and is much used for lining; also the stuffe callimanco.” But this, it is evident, cannot apply to a manufacture of bombagio or cotton; and the Vocabolario della Crusca, as well as the Glossary of Du Cange, speak of “bucherame bianchissima,” and “bucherame bambagino,” and both of them quote our author for the use of the word. All the examples convey the idea of fine, white, and soft cotton cloth; the reverse of what is now called buckram. The early Latin text speaks of boccorame and bambace as two distinct things. 3 Natural warm baths are found in many parts of Asia Minor, and particularly near Ancyra, the modern Angora or Anguri, which are still much frequented. Their situation is denoted by the word Thermæ, in Rennell's map explanatory of the Retreat of the Ten thousand. They are also spoken of at Teflis in Georgia; The Travels of Marco Polo, the Venetian 35 but of their existence at Arzengan I have not been able to find notice in the works of the Eastern geographers. 4 Argiron, or, in the Latin versions, Argyron, is a corruption of Arzerrûm, Erzerûm, or Arzen er−rûm, a distinctive name given to a city called Arzen, as being the last strong place, in that direction, belonging to the Greek empire. “Arzerrûm,” says Abulfeda, “est extremus finis regionum Rumæorum ab oriente. In ejus orientali et septentrionali latere est fons Euphratis.” 5 Darziz, which in the Basle edition is Darzirim, in the older Latin, Arziu, and in the Italian epitomes, Arciri and Arziri, is the town now called Arjîs, situated on the border of the Lake Van, anciently named Arsissa palus. “Argish,” says Macdonald Kinneir, “is a town containing six thousand inhabitants, situated on the north−west side of the lake, three days' journey from Van. There are four islands in the lake, on one of which is an Armenian monastery, and three hundred priests.” Memoir of the Persian Empire, pp. 328, 329. These places, it may be observed, lay in our author's returning route, from Tauris to Trebisond. 6 Paipurth, the Baiburt of D' Anville's and Rennell's maps, is situated among the mountains, in a northerly direction from Arzerrûm. As the word purt signifies a castle in the Armenian language, and as the Arabian geographers, from not having the letter p in their alphabet, are obliged to substitute the b, it is probable that the former is the more genuine orthography. This castle is particularly noted by Josaphat Barbaro, who says, “Partendo d' essa (Trabisonda) per andar à Thaurisil primo luogo notabile che si trova, è uno castello in piano in una valle d' ognitorno circondata da monti, nominato Baiburth, castel forte e muratoCinque giornate piu in la, si trova ArsenganPoi si ritrova un castello nominato Carpurth.”—Viaggio in Persia, p. 48, ed. 1545, 12mo. 7 Although this particular mine may have been exhausted, silver mines are known to exist in this part of Armenia. 8 The mountain of Armenia (the Ararat of Scripture) upon which the ark is believed by the Christians of that country to have rested, stands not far from the city of Erivan or Irwân. The Mahometans, however, assign to it a different situation. “L'opinion commune des Orientaux,” says D'Herbelot, “est que l'arche de Noë s'arrêta sur la montagne de Gioudi, qui est une des croupes du mont Taurus ou Gordiæus en Arménie, et cette tradition est autorisé en ce pays−là par plusieurs histoires qui approchent fort de la fable.” “Joudi,” says Ibn Haukal, “is a mountain near Nisibin. It is said that the ark of Noah (to whom be peace,) rested on the summit of this mountain.” Ouseley's translation, p. 60. Major Rennell observes, that Jeudi is the part of the Carduchian mountains opposite to the Jezirat ibn Omar, and that the dervishes keep a light burning there, in honour of Noah and his ark. 9 This fertility of the country in the vicinity of the mountains, is noticed by Moses Chorenensis, who says, “Habet autem Araratia montes camposque, atque omnem fæcunditatem.”—Geographia, p. 361. 10 Springs of petroleum or earth (properly, rock) oil, are found in many parts of the world. The spring or fountain here spoken of is that of Baku in Shirvan, on the border of the Caspian. “Near to this place,” says John Cartwright, in what are termed the Preacher's Travels, “is a very strange and wonderful fountain under ground, out of which there springeth and issueth a marvellous quantity of black oyl, which serveth all the parts of Persia to burn in their houses; and they usually carry it all over the country upon kine and asses, whereof you shall oftentimes meet three or four hundred in company.”—Oxford Coll. of Voyages, vol. i. (vii.) p. 731. Strahlenberg speaks of this as a spring of white naphtha, which he distinguishes from the black sort of bitumen; but the most satisfactory account of both white and black naphtha in this district is given by Kæmpfer, in his Amænitates Exoticæ, p. 274−281. Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

  • Che Guevara’s Travels – The Motorcycle Diaries and More

    Before becoming a world-renowned revolutionary and a symbol of revolutions, Ernesto Guevara de la Serna was an Argentine medical student weary of school and eager to explore the world. Operating on a tight budget, he initially embarked on long bicycle rides. Later, challenged to go on a solo journey, he covered 4,000 miles. After his return, accompanied by his friend Alberto Granado, they set off on a 1939 Norton 500cc Poderosa II ("The Mighty II") for another epic adventure. The journey spanned Argentina, Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Panama, and Miami, before Guevara returned home to Buenos Aires. < Back Che Guevara’s Travels – The Motorcycle Diaries and More Before becoming a world-renowned revolutionary and a symbol of revolutions, Ernesto Guevara de la Serna was an Argentine medical student weary of school and eager to explore the world. Operating on a tight budget, he initially embarked on long bicycle rides. Later, challenged to go on a solo journey, he covered 4,000 miles. After his return, accompanied by his friend Alberto Granado, they set off on a 1939 Norton 500cc Poderosa II ("The Mighty II") for another epic adventure. The journey spanned Argentina, Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Panama, and Miami, before Guevara returned home to Buenos Aires. Che Guevara loved to travel. His father wrote that with time he came to understand, “his obsession with travelling was just another part of his zeal for learning”. Ernesto’s first noteworthy journey on his own took place in 1950, when he toured all of central and northern Argentina by a motorized bicycle -a trip of some 4,000 miles. Earlier I have already written about that journey! Check it out please… Che Guevara setting out on a 2,800 mile solo motorbike trip through the Argentine Northwest in 1950 Upon completion of his bicycle journey he continued studying and also worked as a nurse on trading and petroleum ships of the Argentine national shipping-company. This allowed Guevara to travel from the south of Argentina to Brazil, Venezuela and Trinidad. He also fell in love for the first time. The object of his affection was the 16-year-old daughter of one of Córdoba’s wealthiest families. Her name was María del Carmen “Chichina” Ferreyra, and they met in October 1950 at a wedding in Córdoba attended by Ernesto and his family. At the beginning of 1951, Ernesto needed to earn some money, so he signed up to serve as a ship’s nurse on Argentina’s merchant marine freighters and oil tankers. Between February and June 1951, he made various trips back and forth between Argentina and Brazil, Venezuela, and the Caribbean islands. These trips gave him plenty of time to study for his medical exams and exposed him to life at sea as well as most of the ports of call on the Atlantic Coast of South America and in the Caribbean. At the end of June 1951, he went back to medical school. On one of his visits to Córdoba to see Chichina, he also visited his friends, the Granado brothers. In the course of a conversation with Alberto Granado while working on his motorcycle, nicknamed La Poderosa (the Powerful One), the idea of making a year-long trip together took shape. Ernesto’s account of this momentous occasion is as follows: Che Guevara kick starts La Poderosa Our fantasizing took us to faraway places, sailing tropical seas, traveling through Asia. And suddenly, slipping in as if part of our fantasy, came the question: “Why don’t we go to North America?” “North America? How?” “On La Poderosa, man.” That’s how the trip came about, and it never deviated from the general principle laid down then: improvisation. My task before leaving was to take as many exams in as many subjects as possible; Alberto’s to get the bike ready for the long journey. At that stage, the momentousness of our endeavor hadn’t dawned on us, all we could see was the dusty road ahead and us on our bike devouring kilometers in the flight northward. When Ernesto revealed his travel plans to his family, they were astonished to discover that he intended to be away for an entire year, especially considering their son was both a severe asthmatic and a medical student on the verge of completing his studies. His romantic involvement with Chichina was another reason for them to dissuade Che. When his father asked him about her, Ernesto said: “If she loves me, she’ll wait.” Che Guevara with Alberto Granado aboard their Mambo-Tango wooden raft on the Amazon River in June 1952 However, Granado, also a doctor, assuaged their concerns by guaranteeing that Guevara would return to finish his degree, a commitment he ultimately fulfilled. Che Guevara’s “The Motorcycle Diaries” which were published many years after his death, provide a valuable personal narrative of this journey. Written while he was traveling around South America in his early 20s, they shed light on a little-known period in his young adulthood and provide important insights into his personality and the development of his views about the world. Ironically, most of this trip was not made on a motorcycle. An episode from movie "The Motorcycle Diaries" Guevara and the 29-year-old Granado soon set off from Buenos Aires, Argentina, astride a 1939 Norton 500 cc motorcycle they named La Poderosa II ("The Mighty II") with the idea of eventually spending a few weeks volunteering at the San Pablo Leper colony in Peru on the banks of the Amazon River. In total, the journey took Guevara through Argentina, Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Panama, and to Miami, before returning home to Buenos Aires. The first stop: Miramar, Argentina, a small resort where Guevara's girlfriend, Chichina, was spending the summer with her upper-class family. Two days stretched into eight, and upon leaving, Chichina gave Guevara a gold bracelet. Several weeks later, in the Andean mountain resort of Bariloche, Ernesto found a letter from Chichina waiting for him at the local post office, where they had previously arranged he would pick up his mail. In this letter, she informed him that she had decided not to wait for him. In his diary, he wrote the following about his reactions: "I read and re-read the incredible letter. Suddenly, all my dreams of home, bound up with the eyes that saw me off in Miramar, were shattered, apparently for no good reason" (page 35). Although he was clearly hurt and wanted at first to write "a weepy letter," he realized it was hopeless to convince her to change her mind. He also wrote: "I thought I loved her until this moment when I realized I couldn't feel, I had to think her back again." The next day, Ernesto and Alberto crossed a mountain lake into Chile on a leaking ferryboat that they kept afloat by pumping out the bilge water in return for their free passage. On this boat, they met some Chilean doctors who told them there was a leper colony on Easter Island (Rapa Nui, or Isla de Pascua), some 2,000 miles from mainland Chile in the southeastern Pacific. As Ernesto wrote in his diary: "It was a wonderful island, they said, and our scientific appetites were whetted" (page 37). They resolved to travel to the island and asked one of the doctors to give them a letter of introduction to the president of the Friends of Easter Island in Valparaíso, where they hoped they could secure passage on a ship going to the island. An episode from movie "The Motorcycle Diaries" With their money running low, they were forced to freeload their way through southern Chile. In the southern port city of Valdivia, they dropped in on the local newspaper, which interviewed them for an article about their journey. As a result, they decided in a gesture of great magnanimity to dedicate their trip to the city since it was celebrating the 400th anniversary of its founding. At their next stop, in the picturesque central Chilean town of Temuco, they were interviewed again by the local newspaper, which was printed under the title: "Two Argentine Leprology Experts Tour South America by Motorbike". Ernesto's account in his diary of this article and their short stay in Temuco reveals some of the flavor of their trip at this point as well as his tongue-in-cheek view of their freeloading style of travel. He wrote: "We had asked permission to leave the bike in the garage of a man who lived on the outskirts, and we now made our way there, no longer just a pair of reasonably likeable bums with a bike in tow. No, we were now 'the experts,' and that's how we were treated. We spent the day fixing the bike, and a little dark maid kept coming up with edible treats. At five o'clock, after a sumptuous 'snack' laid on by our host, we said goodbye to Temuco and headed north". They didn't get very far before they noticed their back tire had a puncture that they couldn't fix. They were worried they would have to spend the night in the open, but as Ernesto recounts in his diary: "We weren't just anybody now, we were 'the experts'; we soon found a railway worker who took us to his house where we were treated like kings". An episode from movie "The Motorcycle Diaries" They fixed the tire at a garage the next day and resumed their trip, but they soon encountered more trouble. Without any warning, their motorcycle veered sideways and threw them off. The crash broke the bike's steering column and smashed its gearbox. This was the beginning of the end of La Poderosa. Although they managed to weld the steering column and fix the gearbox at a local garage, the bike was never the same again. While they were working on the bike at this garage, they bummed something to eat and drink at the homes of the curiosity seekers who dropped by to see the two famous travelers working on their motorcycle. On their last night in Temuco, they were invited by the mechanics at the garage to have drinks with them and go to a village dance, where Ernesto got drunk and caused an altercation on the dance floor. He wrote the following account of this incident in his diary: “Chilean wine is very good, and I was downing it at an amazing rate, so by the time we went on to the village dance, I felt ready for anything. One of the mechanics from the garage, a particularly nice guy, asked me to dance with his wife because he had been mixing his drinks and was the worse for wear. His wife was pretty randy [feeling horny] and obviously in the mood, and I, full of Chilean wine, took her by the hand to lead her outside. She followed me docilely but then realized her husband was watching and changed her mind. I was in no state to listen to reason, and we had a bit of a barney [quarrel] in the middle of the dance floor, resulting in me pulling her toward one of the doors with everybody watching. She tried to kick me, and as I was pulling her, she lost her balance and went crashing to the floor”. He and Alberto had to quickly leave the scene, "pursued by a swarm of enraged dancers." Since they had now worn out the hospitality of their local hosts, they left the next day, but only after having lunch at the house of the family that lived next to the garage. On the road north to Santiago, they had another bad spill on the motorcycle, and they had to repair it once again. Shortly thereafter, the bike finally gave its last gasp going up a steep hill, and they had to hitch a lift on a truck going to the town of Los Angeles. They arranged to stay in a volunteer fire station in Los Angeles and in a few days found a truck to take them and the bike to Santiago, where they left the corpse of La Poderosa at a garage. At this point in their journey, Ernesto noted they ceased being "motorized bums" and became "non-motorized bums". From this point forward, they had to rely on their freeloading skills to hitch rides, bum meals and lodgings, work odd jobs when they could, and panhandle their way northward to Peru. An episode from movie "The Motorcycle Diaries" They went from Santiago to Valparaíso only to discover there were no ships leaving from this port city to go to Easter Island for another six months. While they were in Valparaíso, they made friends with the owner of a bar named La Gioconda (the name of a famous Italian opera and another name for the Mona Lisa painting). The bar owner would not let them pay for their food or drink and even let them sleep in the kitchen. He was fond of saying: "Today it’s your turn, tomorrow it’ll be mine". While they were there, he asked Ernesto to visit one of his elderly customers who was suffering from asthma and a bad heart. Ernesto’s comments in his diary about this old woman reveal a great deal about his social views at this stage in his life. He observed that "the poor thing was in an awful state, breathing the smell of stale sweat and dirty feet that filled her room, mixed with the dust from a couple of armchairs," which were "the only luxuries in her house". Such circumstances, he said, made a doctor feel powerless and long for change that would end the social injustices of the present order. From Valparaíso, Ernesto and Alberto stowed away on a boat that was headed for the northern port of Antofagasta. They were discovered after the boat was at sea and forced to do menial chores such as cleaning the latrines and the decks. However, at night, the captain invited them to drink and play cards with him. When they arrived in Antofagasta, they tried to stow away on another boat headed farther north, but they were caught before it sailed and put on shore. Instead, they traveled north overland through the desert by hitching rides on trucks. So it was that they ended up visiting Chile’s largest copper mine at Chuquicamata. The movie poster of "The Motorcycle Diaries" While getting a tour of the mine he asked how many men died in its creation. At the time it was run by U.S. mining monopolies of Anaconda and Kennecott and thus was viewed by many as a symbol of "imperialist gringo domination". A meeting with a homeless communist couple in search of mining work made a particularly strong impression on Guevara, who wrote: "By the light of the single candle ... the contracted features of the worker gave off a mysterious and tragic air ... the couple, frozen stiff in the desert night, hugging one another, were a live representation of the proletariat of any part of the world." From Chuquicamata, Ernesto and Alberto hitchhiked to the Peruvian border. In Peru, they adopted a pattern of hitching rides on the trucks carrying people and freight between the main towns, asking if they could stay overnight in the guard stations of the Peruvian Civil Guard (the country’s paramilitary national police force) or the hospitals in the towns where they stopped. As they traveled, they came in close contact with Peru’s exploited and suffering Indian masses, who represent a majority of the population. They saw how the Indians of the Peruvian altiplano (high plateau) were (and still are) exploited and oppressed. The movie poster of the Spanish-language film "The Motorcycle Diaries" In Tarata, Peru, Ernesto wrote in his diary about how the local Peruvian Indians (the Aymarás) “are not the same proud race that time after time rose up against Inca rule and forced them to maintain a permanent army on their borders”; rather, they had become “a defeated race” since the Spanish Conquest and centuries of colonial domination. After they left Tarata, they traveled on the same truck with a schoolteacher who had been fired by the government because he was a member of the leftist APRA party (American Popular Revolutionary Alliance). He was part Indian and seemed to know a great deal about Peru’s indigenous cultures and customs. The teacher told Ernesto and Alberto about the need to establish schools for the Indians that would teach them to “value their own world” and that would “enable them to play a useful role within it.” He also spoke about “the need to change completely the present system of education,” which he said “on the rare occasions it does offer Indians an education (education, that is, according to the white man’s criteria), only fills them with shame and resentment, leaving them unable to help their fellow Indians and at a tremendous disadvantage in a white society which is hostile to them”. Alberto Granado's book cover "Traveling with Che Guevara The Making of a Revolutionary" Because of their interest in leprosy, they went to Lima, the capital city of Peru, to meet Dr. Hugo Pesce, a well-known expert in leprology and a university professor. Dr. Pesce put them up in the leper hospital he ran in Lima and invited them to eat dinner at his house, which they did just about every night while they stayed in Lima. They divided their time between the leper hospital and the National Museum of the Archaeology, Anthropology, and History of Peru, which presents the history of Peru from prehistoric times to the colonial era. Ernesto also had long conversations about philosophy, politics, and critical health issues in Latin America with Dr. Pesce, who was a disciple of the Peruvian Marxist philosopher José Carlos Mariátegui and a prominent member of the Peruvian Communist Party. In Lima, Ernesto and Alberto decided to give up their original objective of traveling to the United States. They chose Venezuela as their ultimate destination after first visiting Dr. Pesce’s largest treatment center for lepers in Peru’s Amazonian region. When they were ready to leave, the patients of the leper hospital in Lima gave them an emotional send-off party. They were very touched by the affectionate farewell the patients gave them and by the small collection of money the patients presented them for their trip. Their destination when they set out from Lima was the San Pablo leper colony situated on the banks of the Amazon River. They hitchhiked from Lima to Pucallpa and then took a boat down the Ucayali River (one of the headwaters of the Amazon) to Iquitos. From Iquitos, they took another boat down the Amazon to the San Pablo leper colony. Once there, they volunteered to work in the leprosarium’s laboratory and endeared themselves to both the staff and the patients. They played soccer with the patients, took them on hikes, and even led them on hunting expeditions. While they were at the colony, Ernesto turned 24, and the staff threw a birthday party for him. The next day, after saying their final good-byes, they cast off in a raft, named Mambo-Tango, built for them by one of the staff members so they could go down the river to Leticia, Colombia, where the borders of Colombia, Peru, and Brazil meet on the upper Amazon. In Leticia, they got 50 percent off on the weekly flight to Bogotá and made some money coaching and playing for the town’s soccer team. When they arrived in Bogotá, they obtained permission to stay at a hospital where they were offered jobs in the leprosy service. However, they had a run-in with the local police over a knife Ernesto carried with him that was a present from his brother Roberto. They were harassed so badly by the police they decided to leave for Venezuela as soon as possible. They made their way to Caracas, the capital of Venezuela. Alberto looked up a doctor who was a specialist in leprology. Impressed by Alberto’s interest in leprosy, the doctor offered him a position in his laboratory. At about the same time, Ernesto ran into an uncle who had an airplane that he used to transport racehorses between Buenos Aires and Miami. The uncle told Ernesto that he could return with him to Buenos Aires if he wanted to resume his studies at medical school. Ernesto and Alberto made a pact: Alberto would accept the job offered him and stay in Venezuela, while Ernesto would go back to Buenos Aires to graduate from medical school and then return to Venezuela to work with Alberto. It was the end of July 1952 when they said good-bye in Caracas. In one of the last entries in his diary, Ernesto commented on how much he missed Alberto. He said: “I’m always turning around to tell him something and then I realize he’s not there.” And he added: “All these months we’ve been together through thick and thin and the habit of dreaming the same dreams in similar situations has made us even closer.” When Ernesto left Caracas, the plane he took went to Miami, where it was scheduled to stop before returning to Buenos Aires. However, when they got to Miami, the plane had mechanical problems, so it had to be repaired before it could leave for Buenos Aires. Ernesto took advantage of this opportunity to get to know the city (pages 153–54). As it turned out, he had to wait a whole month for the plane to be repaired. He had no money, but he was able to stay in a small hotel by promising to pay the bill from Buenos Aires as soon as he returned, which he did. During the month that he stayed in Miami, Ernesto visited the beaches and hung around with an Argentine student he met, who helped him find a job as a dishwasher in one of Miami’s restaurants. When the plane was repaired, he flew back to Buenos Aires. It was September 1952. In the prologue he wrote for Ernesto’s The Motorcycle Diaries, his father emphasizes that we can see in this written account of Ernesto’s eight-month journey that he “had faith in himself as well as the will to succeed, and a tremendous determination to achieve what he set out to do”. Guevara's 1950s journeys profoundly shaped his worldview, setting the stage for his revolutionary path. Witnessing the widespread endemic poverty, oppression and disenfranchisement throughout Latin America, and influenced by his readings of Marxist literature, Guevara later decided that the only solution for the region's structural inequalities was armed revolution. The Motorcycle Diaries, initially unpublished, uncovers Ernesto's evolving political consciousness and early socialist inclinations. Unlike zealous do-gooders, Guevara's narrative revealed a genuine desire to help others without self-righteousness. The book was first published in 1993 as Notas de viaje by Casa Editora Abril in Havana, Cuba. The first English edition was brought out by Verso Books in 1995. In 2004, Aleida Guevara explained that her father had not intended his diary to be published, and that it consisted of "a sheaf of typewritten pages". But already in the 1980s, his family worked on his unpublished manuscripts. Renowned actor, producer, and director Robert Redford brought The Motorcycle Diaries to life, a film adaptation of Ernesto Guevara's transformative journey across Latin America. Directed by Walter Salles, the 2004-2005 release starred Gael García Bernal as the young Ernesto and Rodrigo de la Serna as Alberto Granado. Despite critical success and an Oscar win, the film faced limited U.S. distribution, earning $16 million domestically but flourishing with a $40 million global revenue. This article contains excerpts from Richard Harris's book "Che Guevara: A Biography" Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

  • Khor Virap Monastery: From the Pit to the First Christian Country

    In 301, Armenia became the first country in the world to officially adopt Christianity! The journey from pagan faith to Christianity started from here: Khor Virap, which translates to "Deep Pit" in Armenian. Later, in the 7th century, a chapel was built over the pit to commemorate these important historical episodes in Armenian history. Today, this historic site is both a pilgrimage destination and a major tourist attraction. < Back Khor Virap Monastery: From the Pit to the First Christian Country In 301, Armenia became the first country in the world to officially adopt Christianity! The journey from pagan faith to Christianity started from here: Khor Virap, which translates to "Deep Pit" in Armenian. Later, in the 7th century, a chapel was built over the pit to commemorate these important historical episodes in Armenian history. Today, this historic site is both a pilgrimage destination and a major tourist attraction. In 287 AD, Tiridates III of Armenia came to power. Tiridates III was the son of King Khosrov II of Armenia, who was assassinated in 252 by a Parthian agent named Anak. Anak was captured and executed along with most of his family, while his son, Gregory the Illuminator, was sheltered in Caesarea, Cappadocia, where he was introduced to the Christian religion. Khor Virap Monastic Complex As the only surviving heir to the throne, Tiridates was quickly taken away to Rome soon after his father's assassination while still an infant. He was educated in Rome and became skilled in languages and military tactics. In addition, he firmly understood and appreciated Roman law. The Armenian historian Movses Khorenatsi describes him as a strong and brave warrior, who participated in combat against his enemies and personally led his army to victory in many battles. Accompanied by Roman troops, Tiridates returned to Mets Hayk in 287 to reclaim the throne. The young Gregory, the son of Anak, also joined him, becoming a loyal comrade-in-arms of the king. Gregory received a Christian education in Caesarea. After the victory against Persia, King Tiridates offered Gregory the opportunity to make an offering to the goddess Anahit. Gregory refused to sacrifice to the idol. King Tiridates III the Great Upon learning that Gregory was the son of Anak, the man who had killed his father, Tiridates III ordered him to be thrown into the dungeon known as "Khor Virap", where Gregory endured 14 years of confinement. Khor Virap, which translates to "deep pit," was originally a royal prison in Artashat city. Legend states that Saint Gregory survived this ordeal thanks to the secret compassion of a kind woman, who sustained him by providing bread and water in secrecy During this time, Tiridates III enforced pagan practices, issuing proclamations and imposing the death penalty on Christians. According to tradition, after a few years, King Tiridates fell ill with a condition described as resembling swine flu. The cause of his illness was attributed to the murder of 33 Hripsimian virgins who had fled from Roman Emperor Diocletian. Among them, Hripsime was stoned to death for rejecting the king’s marriage proposal. Agathangelos writes: "Tiridates began to rage and eat himself, and like Nebuchadnezzar, king of the Babylonians, left his human nature and, in the form of wild pigs, went to live among them." Tiridates’ sister, Khosrovidukht, had a dream revealing that only Grigor, still imprisoned, could heal the king. Gregory was brought out of the dungeon and taken to Vagharshapat. He buried the remains of the martyred virgins, established a five-day fast, and through prayers, healed the king. A painting of Gregory the Illuminator by Vardges Sureniants An epoch-making event in Armenian history occurred in 301 when Tiridates III officially recognized Christianity as the state religion. Afterwards king Tiridates III and Gregory the Illuminato traveled across Armenia, destroying pagan monuments and establishing Christian ones in their place. Saint Astvatsatsin Church By the decision of the Council of Elders, Tiridates sent Gregory to Caesarea, where he was ordained as a bishop. Upon his return, the newly consecrated Catholicos baptized Tiridates and his court in the Aratsani River. Together, they initiated the construction of the Mother Cathedral of Etchmiadzin. The entrance to Khor Virap "Deep Pit" inside Saint Gregory Chapel In around 642, Catholicos Nerses III built a chapel over the pit where Gregory had been imprisoned. While the original structure did not survive, the current buildings date back to the 17th century. Modern-Day Khor Virap The monastery complex, built in the 17th century, includes the Saint Gregory Church, the Saint Astvatsatsin Church, and the famous underground dungeon known as Khor Virap (Deep Pit). Visitors can descend into this pit via a narrow ladder, experiencing the space where Saint Gregory endured his imprisonment. Saint Gregory Chapel (1662–1669): Built on the foundations of an earlier church, it houses the dungeon beneath its High Altar. Saint Astvatsatsin Church : Located in the center of the complex, this domed church features bas relief of Gregory and Tiridates. Walls and Bell Tower : The bell tower, built in the 19th century, is adorned with columns, while the surrounding walls date to the 17th century. Khor Virap also served as an educational center, founded by Vardan Areveltsi in 1255. Many manuscripts copied here are preserved at the Mesrop Mashtots Matenadaran in Yerevan. The complex underwent renovation during the 1960s and 1970s. His Holiness Karekin II and the Pope of the Roman Catholic Church visiting Khor Virap Tourism and Accessibility Located approximately 40 kilometers from Yerevan, Khor Virap is easily accessible by car or guided tour. Its proximity to the Turkish-Armenian border provides unparalleled views of Mount Ararat, a national symbol of Armenia. The picturesque surroundings and profound historical significance make it a must-visit destination for travelers exploring Armenia. Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

  • Discovered an abandoned Soviet-era culture house in Armenia

    This abandoned culture house in Bjni has some of the most amazing frescoes I ever saw. < Back Discovered an abandoned Soviet-era culture house in Armenia This abandoned culture house in Bjni has some of the most amazing frescoes I ever saw. While culture houses in the Soviet Union shared a similar architectural style, their interior design could vary depending on the country. Following a period of relaxed repression and censorship known as "The Khrushchev Thaw" (which spanned from the mid-1950s to the mid-1960s due to Nikita Khrushchev's policies of de-Stalinization and peaceful coexistence with other nations), artists began to decorate these culture houses with elements from their own national cultures. Although these expressions of national identity were seen as nationalistic and were not always welcomed by Moscow, they marked the resurgence of art and freedom of expression. The facade of the culture house! Looks futuristic... not bad for Soviet times... In Armenia, artists drew on the nation's rich history, depicting heroic scenes from Armenian epic poems and history. Many of these artworks have survived to the present day. The author of this huge fresco is honored Armenian artist Henrik Siravyan. It’s called "History and Present" and was created in 1975. Join my urban explorer tours to uncover the hidden marvels of Armenia! For a personalized itinerary, please contact me. Project Gallery You May Also Like Destroyed Bas-Reliefs of Armenia Exploring the Unfinished Depths of Yerevan Metro The Destroyed Statues of Armenia KANAZ: The Cultural Heart of Kanaker’s Aluminium Factory Urban Exploration Tour with Carlus in a Lada Niva Urban Explorer Tour with a French Photographer This Trophy 1m Schmidt Telescope Was Hitler's Gift to Mussolini Lenin in Armenia Previous Next

  • Horom's Cyclopean Fortress in Armenia

    Horom's cyclopean fortress is one of the most mysterious places in Armenia! Erected without mortar these megalithic stones formed a mighty wall, that stood for thousands of years! The methods employed to cut, move, and lift these stones remain a captivating mystery! < Back Horom's Cyclopean Fortress in Armenia Horom's cyclopean fortress is one of the most mysterious places in Armenia! Erected without mortar these megalithic stones formed a mighty wall, that stood for thousands of years! The methods employed to cut, move, and lift these stones remain a captivating mystery! The Classical Greeks believed that, since the walls of ancient Mycenae (which was already in ruins in the Classical Era) was so magnificent, entirely made out of huge boulders, it was probably the Cyclopean giants that helped the Mycenaeans built the walls. Me posing for a photo while standing among the ruins of Horom's cyclopean fortress As I stand in the vicinity of Horom's Cyclopean fortress, I am in awe of the colossal rock fragments before me, prompting a lingering question: “How did our ancestors manage to lift such enormous weights during the 3rd-2nd millennium B.C.?” Could giants have been involved, or did our ancestors simply master the ingenious methods of leveraging and pulleys? The sheer length of Horom's defensive walls, estimated to be approximately 7 km, only adds to the mystery. Throughout the 20th century, numerous renowned researchers have explored this mysterious fortress, including Nikolai Marr, Boris Piotrovsky, Atrpet, Toros Toramanian, and others. Prominent Armenian architect and architectural historian Toros Toramanian Notably, Toros Toramanian, a celebrated Armenian architect and archaeologist, wrote about his impressions in his travel notes: “Horom's fortress city is the only one among all ancient fortress cities in terms of its size and content, and it is impossible to observe without amazement what kind of extraordinary human power and resources were used to raise the wall stones on top of each other.” I left this place with the intention of returning, because this time there was a strong wind and I could not lift my drone, and I hope that the area will be improved one day and it will become a popular tourist destination! Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

  • Mount Aragats - Highest Mountain in Armenia

    Mount Aragats, Armenia’s highest peak, stands as a majestic symbol of the nation’s natural beauty and cultural heritage. Towering at 4,090 meters (13,419 feet), this dormant volcano draws outdoor adventurers and history enthusiasts alike with its awe-inspiring vistas and significant scientific and historical value. This article explores the mountain's fascinating origins, cultural importance, diverse hiking experiences, and the unique gravity-defying phenomenon that make Mount Aragats an extraordinary destination. < Back Mount Aragats - Highest Mountain in Armenia Mount Aragats, Armenia’s highest peak, stands as a majestic symbol of the nation’s natural beauty and cultural heritage. Towering at 4,090 meters (13,419 feet), this dormant volcano draws outdoor adventurers and history enthusiasts alike with its awe-inspiring vistas and significant scientific and historical value. This article explores the mountain's fascinating origins, cultural importance, diverse hiking experiences, and the unique gravity-defying phenomenon that make Mount Aragats an extraordinary destination. The Geography Rising to 4,090 meters (13,420 feet) above sea level, Mount Aragats is the highest peak in Armenia and the pinnacle of the Lesser Caucasus. This majestic, four-peaked volcanic massif lies northwest of Yerevan, bordered by the Kasagh River to the east, the Akhurian River to the west, the Ararat Plain to the south, and the Shirak Plain to the north. Encompassing a circumference of approximately 200 kilometers (120 miles), Aragats spans a significant portion of the Armenian Highlands. Mount Aragats has 4 summits which are named according to their relative geographic position: Northern—4,090 m (13,420 ft) Western—3,995 m (13,107 ft) Eastern—3,908 m (12,822 ft) Southern—3,888 m (12,756 ft) Note that Mount Ararat is not in the territory of Armenia, since it came under Turkish control according to the 1921 Treaty of Moscow and Treaty of Kars. All 4 summits of mount Aragats Cultural significance The slopes of Mount Aragats are rich with ancient archaeological sites, fortresses, petroglyphs, and the unique Vishaps (Dragonstones). Among these, Amberd Fortress stands as the most renowned. This historic fortress includes a three-story princely citadel, fortified walls, a bathhouse, a small chapel, a church, hidden passages, and reservoirs. While much of the original citadel has collapsed, the upper two floors and their five large rooms remain intact. Within the fortress grounds lies the 11th-century Vahramashen Church. In 1236, the fortress fell to Mongol forces, leaving it in ruins. Later, the Vachutian noble family partially rebuilt Amberd at the close of the 13th century, but it was permanently destroyed during the Timurid invasions at the end of the 14th century and has not been rebuilt since. Medieval Amberd Fortress Scientific Institutions On the shore of Lake Kari, nestled at an elevation of 3200 meters, lies the Cosmic Ray Research Station, established back in 1943 by the esteemed Soviet physicists, brothers Artem and Abraham Alikhanyan. The station was the first of its kind in the Soviet Union to have the world's largest permanent magnet magnetic spectrometer. One can step inside the gates of the station to see a massive Dragon-stone on the shore of lake Kari! Lake Kari and Cosmic Ray Resarch station as seen by me from the slopes of Southern Aragats Additionally, the Byurakan Observatory, founded in 1946 by Victor Hambartsumian, sits proudly on the southern slopes of Aragats in the village of Byurakan, positioned at an altitude of 1,405 meters (4,610 feet). The ZTA-2.6 telescope is the largest observational instrument at the Byurakan Astrophysical Observatory (BAO). Constructed by the Leningrad Optical-Mechanical Association (LOMO) in St. Petersburg, Russia, it is a twin of the G.A. Shain reflector located at the Crimean Astrophysical Observatory (CrAO). Architect Sargis Gurzadyan, 1976 Currently, the observatory is equipped with five instruments. The largest telescopes include a 2.64-meter reflector telescope with a sitall mirror, built in 1976 (the mirror was installed in 1984, with the previous mirror transferred to the ROT-54/2.6 telescope), and a 1-meter Schmidt telescope, which was the largest Schmidt telescope in the USSR and remains one of the largest Schmidt telescopes in the world. Other instruments include a 53-centimeter Super-Schmidt system telescope (similar to the WOW (AZT-1, f=1800)), as well as 50- and 40-centimeter reflector telescopes with electrophotometers and electropolarimeters. Another scientific gem is the ROT54 which is a dream destination for urban explorers. Orgov Telescope, officially known as ROT-54/2.6, is a prominent radio-optical telescope located in Armenia’s Orgov village. Aerial photo of ROT54 Constructed between 1975 and 1985, the Orgov Telescope operated from 1986 until it ceased activity around 1990. In the mid-1990s, plans for its restoration emerged, leading to modernization efforts between 1995 and 2010. This included the installation of advanced control computers and updated feeds, enabling resumed observations in partnership with the Russian Astronomical Society and the National Technical University of Athens. However, in 2012, operations halted again due to a control arm failure that immobilized the secondary mirror. With the Armenian state unable to fund repairs, the telescope was mothballed. Experts estimate that reviving the telescope would require $25 million for upgrades to control systems, digital sensor replacements, and data processing enhancements. The control room of ROT54 Armenia’s High-Altitude Lakes On the slopes of Mount Aragats, several high-altitude lakes serve as popular tourist destinations. Among these, Lake Kari (3,200 meters), Lake Rapi (3,005 meters), and Lake Mtnalich (3,465 meters) are particularly notable. Lake Kari, the highest lake in Armenia accessible by sedan, is reachable via an older yet well-maintained asphalt road constructed during the Soviet era to facilitate scientific research in the area. Lake Kari (Stone Lake) Aragats Gravity Hill Gravity hills are found in numerous locations worldwide, including Australia, Argentina, Brazil, Canada, China, Chile, France, India, and Greece. Armenia’s gravity hill, located on the slopes of Mount Aragats, is among the most popular. These sites are often called "Magnetic Hill," "Magnetic Road," "Magic Road," or simply "Gravity Hill," as many lack specific local names. The phenomenon behind gravity hills is a captivating optical illusion resulting from the landscape's unique layout. This illusion creates the appearance of a slight downhill slope as an uphill incline. As a result, when a car is left out of gear on these hills, it seems to roll "uphill," defying gravity. This effect is similar to the experience within an Ames room, where perspective distortions lead objects to appear as though they’re defying gravitational laws. In this video you can see how a water bottle "rolls up the hill" For those interested in experiencing this firsthand, the coordinates of the Aragats Gravity Hill are 40°25′55″N 44°14′04″E , with another nearby site close to Amberd Fortress at 40°24'02"N 44°13'50"E . ---------- For a hiking tour to mount Aragats with me check out this link ! Thanks Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

  • Che Guevara's first journey on a motorized bicycle

    This article is about Che Guevara’s solo trip across central and northern Argentina on a motorized bicycle, covering a distance of approximately 4,000 miles. It ignited a stronger passion within the heart of the young explorer and unfolded new horizons for him. This marked only the commencement of his unfolding journey. < Back Che Guevara's first journey on a motorized bicycle This article is about Che Guevara’s solo trip across central and northern Argentina on a motorized bicycle, covering a distance of approximately 4,000 miles. It ignited a stronger passion within the heart of the young explorer and unfolded new horizons for him. This marked only the commencement of his unfolding journey. From early childhood, Ernesto "Che" Guevara loved to travel. His father wrote that with time he came to understand that "his obsession with traveling was just another part of his zeal for learning" (Guevara 1995:2). Ernesto's first noteworthy journey on his own took place in 1950 when he toured all of central and northern Argentina on a motorized bicycle - a trip of some 4,000 miles (Gambini 1968:22). At the time, he was 21 and a medical student at the University of Buenos Aires. It was a bicycle on which he had installed a small engine. During his journey, he stopped in Córdoba to visit his friends Tomás and Alberto Granado. Alberto was conducting research on lepers at a leprosarium near San Francisco del Chañar, and Ernesto, intrigued by his work, spent several days with him there. Che Guevara setting out on a 2,800 mile solo motorbike trip through the Argentine Northwest in 1950 From there, he headed north and encountered an interesting assortment of hobos, vagabonds, seasonal workers, poor indigenous inhabitants, and other socially marginalized people. He often stayed overnight in police stations and provincial hospitals, asking if he could sleep in vacant jail cells or empty hospital beds. As a result, "for the first time in his adult life, Ernesto witnessed the harsh duality of his country by crossing the divide from its transported European culture, which was also his culture, and...its ignored, backward, indigenous heartland" (Anderson 1997:63). Guevara relied upon the hospitality of strangers, a pattern that continued in his later travels with Granado. For example, after a puncture, he flagged down a lorry to take him to his next destination. In another instance, in Loreto, he sought hospitality from a local police officer when he had nowhere to stay. The trip influenced Guevara's style of traveling, as seen in the Motorcycle Diaries. For the young Guevara, the journey was an education. The motorized bicycle now at a Che museum in Alta Gracia, Argentina Upon returning to Buenos Aires, Ernesto took the motorbike back to the store where he bought it for reconditioning. When the store owner learned the details of the trip, he was astounded and asked Ernesto to provide a letter attesting to his fantastic journey using that particular brand of motorbike. This letter, along with a picture of Ernesto sitting on his motorbike, was published in a local sports magazine as an advertisement for that type of motorbike (Taibo 1996:35). They claimed it was very sturdy, given that Guevara had completed such a long tour using its power. The success of his Argentinian travels sparked in him a desire to explore the world more attentively and initiated the planning of new travel adventures. Gallery You May Also Like Modernist architecture in the Soviet Union The movie Seven Years in Tibet is based on Heinrich Harrer’s eponymous book The Tallest Stalin Statue Ever Erected The Biggest Bank Robbery in the Soviet Union The Real Story Behind the Movie The Lost City of Z On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent” Hiking Guide to Climbing Mount Azhdahak Molokans in Armenia

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