On Reinhold Messner’s book “The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent”

As a child, I remember gazing at the large bookshelves in our home, filled with books neatly lined up one after another. Among them, one stood out—a book displayed with its cover facing outward. On the cover was an image of a man traversing a snowy, rocky mountain, pulling a loaded yak behind him. The white letters in Russian on the cover were unreadable to me then. But soon, I learned to read and write, and that book turned out to be The Crystal Horizon by Reinhold Messner. Let’s talk about it.

On August 20, 1980, Reinhold Messner made history as the first person to climb Mount Everest solo and without supplemental oxygen, pioneering a new route on the North Col/face. For me, this ascent remains the epitome of heroism in mountaineering. It’s a feat that I would only compare to Hermann Buhl’s legendary first ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953. However, while Buhl had a large team supporting him, Messner embarked on his Everest climb accompanied only by his girlfriend, with no backup team.

The first time I read The Crystal Horizon was in Russian. It was published in Moscow in 1980 with 100,000 copies, a rarity and highly sought-after book at the time. My father, through his connections, managed to get a copy.

Years later, I bought the original German version of the book. Though I wasn’t fluent in German, I pushed myself to read it, learning new words and significantly improving my language skills in the process. This book is not just a thrilling account of a mountaineering milestone; it’s also a source of inspiration and personal growth.

The Russian and German editions of The Crystal Horizon

Later, when I got my hands on both the English and German editions of The Crystal Horizon, I noticed that they included more photos than the Russian one. Despite this, the book was highly valued in Soviet countries, where access to Western literature was limited, and it played a significant role in introducing Messner’s incredible achievements to a wider audience. The Russian edition, though slightly abridged in visuals, still managed to capture the essence of his journey and contributed to making Messner famous among mountaineering enthusiasts in the USSR.

The first page instantly captures the reader's attention, beginning with a heartfelt letter from Messner’s mother. However, this letter appears only on the early pages of the Russian version, while in the German edition, it is found on pages 306–307. Personally, I find the Russian version more compelling and greatly value their approach. Having already lost one of her sons, Günther, she found it incredibly difficult to come to terms with Messner’s future ascents. This letter is not only deeply moving but also serves as a poignant reminder of the psychological challenges and emotional weight that accompanied this extraordinary climb.

Messner begins by recounting early attempts to conquer Everest, including the fascinating story of Maurice Wilson’s ill-fated expedition. This historical context adds immense value to the ascent, as it helps the reader fully appreciate the near-impossible nature of Messner’s achievement. No surprise that throughout his ascent, he constantly thinks about Wilson and Mallory, asking himself whether they made it. Here's an excerpt: "If Wilson had managed to get up here, I think suddenly, would he have reached the summit? Wilson was tougher than I am, uncompromising, and capable of enduring loneliness. The stretch above me seems really easy, so Wilson would have been able to climb it, at least as far as the North-East Ridge."

When I read this book around 2005, during the pre-Internet era in Armenia—when dial-up connections were still a novelty and access to information was limited—I learned a great deal about the pioneering expeditions. It was through this book that I first discovered the stories of Mallory and Irvine, as well as Maurice Wilson.

Interestingly, Messner skillfully incorporates excerpts from his girlfriend Nena's diary, offering the reader a unique third-person perspective on the events.

Messner accomplished this incredible feat not only solo but also during the monsoon season—a time when climbing conditions on Everest are notoriously harsh. Initially, his plan was to attempt the ascent in the mid-1980s. However, upon learning that Japanese climber Naomi Uemura had obtained permission to climb Everest in 1980/81, Messner decided to take on the challenge earlier, opting for an even more daring ascent: during the monsoon season and completely alone.

Open page of the Russian edition of The Crystal Horizon

Uemura was no ordinary competitor—he had reached the North Pole solo on a dog sled, a feat that underscored his determination and skill. However, despite his reputation, Uemura later canceled his plans to climb Everest from the North (Tibetan) side. Messner, on the other hand, pressed forward undeterred.

I’ve come across some criticism of this book, particularly regarding Messner's egoistic nature and his perceived attitude toward Nena. However, the dynamics of their relationship are for Nena and Reinhold to discuss. When it comes to egoism, I personally view mountaineering as inherently ego-driven—an activity that climbers pursue to fulfill their ambitions or build a career.

Modern sports, in general, often center on personal achievement, and mountaineering is no exception. After all, Messner didn’t endanger anyone else’s life in pursuit of his ambitions, so let him climb.

I plan to dedicate a separate article to exploring Messner's legendary ascent in greater detail. For now, I highly recommend The Crystal Horizon to anyone fascinated by mountaineering, adventure, or stories of unparalleled human resilience. This book is much more than an account of a climb—it’s a profound journey into the mind of one of the greatest climbers in history.